Your new lawn requires a great deal of water. You should water your new lawn on a daily basis for the first 45-60 days. Every new lawn requires a minimum of one inch of water per week under normal conditions (70-75 Deg., humid, and little to no wind). Adjust your water quantities based on the changes in the weather and most importantly on the moisture level of the soil. Under some conditions, you could have to water several times per day. The top inch must always be kept moist to encourage good germination. In addition, six inches of moisture is recommended for a healthy lawn. The most effective way of watering is by lawn sprinklers. The finer the spray the better the results. Watering by hand is not an effective way of watering. Walking on your lawn during watering will damage it. Always water from the furthest point working towards the water source. Morning watering is preferred but if need be you can water in the early evening. Evening watering can cause blight and fungus in your lawn and mid-day watering is for the most part ineffective. Be careful not to water so as to create muddy conditions. If the water begins to run off the surface, move the sprinkler or stop watering and continue after the water has soaked in. After your new lawn is established (45-60 days), you may begin decreasing the frequency of watering. Maintaining a moisture level of six inches will encourage the roots to go deeper into the soil and give it superior drought tolerance. You should water your new lawn regularly throughout the first full growing season.


When we seeded your lawn we gave it enough fertilizer to carry it several weeks. After this time, you should begin fertilizing your new lawn. Your lawn should be a brilliant green for the first couple months. After this time, a properly fertilized lawn will begin to turn dark green. If you are watering your lawn as stated above and it begins to appear yellow or chartreuse, it is most likely lacking fertilizer. Double check to see that the ground is moist before adding any fertilizer. Over fertilizing can cause serious damage. Establishing grass requires many nutrients, so you will be fertilizing frequently in the first year. Contact your local agronomist to see what fertilizer is right for your soil type. We use a starter fertilizer of 19-19-19 ([N] Nitrogen- [P] Phosphorus- [K] Potash) analysis. In addition to fertilizer, you will probably need to add lime. Check with your agronomist for correct liming rates as well. The best thing you can do is to have a soil sample taken and analyzed. This sample will inform you of exactly what nutrients your soil is lacking.


Never mow more than 1/3 of the total plant height. Keep your blades sharp, and try not to leave clumps of grass on your new lawn. Collection systems and sweepers are not recommended in the first year. Never mow your new lawn at any less than two inches or any more than three. Do not remove the mulch used to cover the seed. Doing so will damage your lawn. The decaying mulch will add organic matter to the soil and help feed the growing root system. Keep lawn mowing and all traffic for that matter to a minimum until your lawn is fully established.


Yes your lawn does have weeds in it. Most likely these were already present at the time we seeded your lawn. Our seed is inspected for weed content and clearly labeled. Our straw comes from the best wheat and barley in our area and is inspected by us for weed content. Weed seeds will lie dormant in the soil for up to seven years. When we work the soil and you water, the freshly disturbed seeds germinate and thrive. Do not use any type of herbicide on them, as your lawn is not established enough to take the chemicals. A new lawn is very fragile and susceptible to damage by even the least toxic weed killers/preventers. Routine mowing takes care of some of them and the rest can be dealt with after your lawn is fully established. Most treatments are not recommended until after the first year. Since situations vary, check with a lawn care professional for weed control.


Your lawn is a combination of Kentucky Bluegrass and Fine Fescues. This is an excellent mix and produces superior results. We use only the finest quality seeds with a tested germination rate of no less than 85%. All of our seed is supplied by Lesco or Seedway. These are two of the most reputable seed suppliers in the industry. The bluegrass can take up to 30 days to germinate, so be patient. This means you probably will not see it for at least 45 days.